AHA: THE STARS OF « NEW SKIN » TREATMENTS
AHA: Alpha-Hydroxy Acids – fruit acids, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid and so on.
Usually used in combination, AHA concentrations in our cosmetics vary from 5% to 15% depending on the targeted efficacy.
- Surface peeling
- Wrinkle treatment
- Treatment of pigmented spots
ONLY PROBLEM: THEIR AGGRESSIVENESS
Their strong stripping action dries the skin and generates inflammation, sometimes even burns and cannot be used on all skins or without precautions or even constraints.
OUTSIDE-IN-THERAPY, AN ALTERNATIVE TO CONVENTIONAL TREATMENTS
Corneotherapy is a science which was largely developed by Dr Albert Kligman. It is the link between cosmetics and dermatology and may represent the “skin care concept of the future”.
Exfoliation techniques are of course part of this since their prime target is the stratum corneum.
Kligman designed a treatment centred on renovation of the corneal layer to correct the entire skin which he called “outside-in therapy”.
Outside-In-Therapy also describes new models of releasing an active to improve its diffusion in a progressive and controlled way into the skin. SKINPERF LWG was developed on the basis of this model of cutaneous therapy.
SKINPERF LWG (Lamellar Water Gel)
was designed to diffuse AHAs in a progressive and controlled way into the skin.
This is a completely new way of releasing AHAs which equals the performance of conventional AHA treatment while avoiding the problems of burns and inflammation.
It consists of:
- A biomaterial developed using green chemistry, forming a lamellar gel which behaves like an intra-cutaneous reservoir of AHA.
- A synergy of alpha-hydroxy acids: 15% glycolic, 7% lactic and 6% citric acids adsorbed onto the lamellar biomaterial.
This new system means that low concentrations of AHA can be used while maintaining its exfoliating performance.
This means that the AHAs are released 2 times more slowly with LWG technology but also in a more progressive and continuous manner.
We can therefore expect 2 types of benefits:
- Extended contact time giving high performance exfoliation of the skin.
- A more progressive supply of AHA which is therefore less aggressive for the skin.
LWG technology should provide similar performance than free AHAs but with much less aggressiveness. Two parameters which define the Performance Index of an AHA treatment.